Lagrange 1989

This muscular, thick, unctuous, lavishly-oaked wine may cause raised eyebrows by those looking for something restrained and understated. There is no doubting the hedonistic appeal of this style of wine. The 1989 (the first bottle was corked) is a smoky, tar, cassis, roasted herb, jammy style of wine, with a dense purple color, sweet tannin, and low acidity. It is easy to drink, although the bouquet has not changed since I tasted it several years ago. The wine is soft and fat, but not flabby. It should drink well for 15+ years, probably developing more focus as well as a more classical profile. The 1989 Lagrange is a big, rich, boldly-flavored wine made in a California-like style.