Meo-Camuzet Les Feusselottes 2020 Chambolle Musigny

Richer and more dramatic than the Cras, the 2020 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselottes (Méo-Camuzet Frère & Soeurs) bursts with aromas of red cherries, ripe berries, loamy soil, orange rind and spices. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and concentrated, it’s textural and seamless, with lively acids and a long, saline finish. Jean-Nicolas Méo began his harvest on August 23, and he has produced another fine vintage at this Vosne-Romanée reference point. Méo has always done well in warm, sunny vintages (as a lovely bottle of his 2003 Nuits Lavières recently reminded me), and 2020 is no exception. Indeed, for a vintage that was generally somewhat primary and frequently tightly wound this winter, Méo’s wines—habitually quite backward after 12 months’ élevage—were remarkably put together and expressive. Mostly landing at around 13.5% alcohol, they’re vibrant, concentrated and nicely balanced, showing considerable aging potential.