Morey Saint Denis ‘Clos de la Bussiere’ 2016 G. Roumier

The 2016 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos de la Bussière almost seemed to relish being unaffected by the frost. A soupçon of schadenfreude perchance? It delivers a joyous, well-defined and concentrated bouquet with a mixture of black and blue fruit, almost Chambolle-like thanks to its richness. The palate is medium-bodied with fresh acidity, and there is superb density here. It feels lively and tensile without compromising the backbone one expects from this vineyard: layers of black fruit tinged with graphite toward the finish. It is almost as if this Morey is rubbing in the fact that its Chambolle stablemates suffered so much during the growing season. This ranks alongside the stupendous 2015 last year.